Barranco in the Light of Day

25 June 2012

Monday


Today I took a continuous five hour long walk, from 1:00 pm to 6:30 pm, with a half hour break somewhere near the middle of that span of time. I previously mentioned my evening in the Barranco District, and that I might walk back in order to see this all on foot. That’s what I did today. I started at my hotel in Miraflores, walked to the Malecon, and followed the waterfront to Parque del Amor, just south of which is a bridge. I had previously noticed another walkway down to the ocean under this bridge. You can this this walkway down in the photo above.

Once down to the waterfront again I walked along the beach — from Playa Waikiki through Playa Redondo to Playa la Estrella — and this eventually brought me to another point where a busy road connects Lima proper to the highway that fronts the ocean. This road is Quebrada de Armendáriz, and it is the road the more or less separates Miraflores from Barranco. Here I walked back up from the waterfront into the city, crossed the bridge and entered Barranco.

In Barranco I made for the area I visited the other evening, around the Bridge of Sighs, which I walked under and down and found another walkway to the waterfront, this one, unlike the previous two I mentioned, does not follow a road (and is therefore a much quieter walking experience). From this point below Barranco there is a marina visible just a little further south, but I went back up the hill to Barranco and didn’t walk further south along the water.

I took my ease for about a half hour in a small restaurant (the Javier Restaurant) below the Bridge of Sighs, where I enjoyed a pitcher of chicha morada while taking in the ocean view. After resting and taking notes I wandered through the historical streets of Barranco, taking pictures of curious facades and interesting buildings. I found my way, getting only a little bit lost, to the Museo Pedro de Osma, but upon my arrival found it to be closed on Mondays.

The closed museum was the furthest extent of my walk. At that point I turned around and began to make my way back north. I followed the Malecon back to Miraflores, without going down to the ocean again.

As the sun set, the haze cleared enough to reveal the dark red disk of the sun setting over the Larcomar Mall, where I had walked a few days previously. The Larcomar Mall is quite nicely designed into the edge of the hillside, with several places to enjoy the view and many ocean view restaurants. It reminded me to Pike Place Market in Seattle, although Pike Place Market is probably as old as Seattle, Larcomar seems to be quite recent.

After nearly five hours of continuous walking I was quite glad to get back to my hotel and collapse for a time. I suspect that I will feel the effort in my feet and in my legs for a few days at least. I’ve written before about the cognitive value of walking, but today’s walk was pretty much absorbed in the things I was seeing and not a meditative experience, although I did have a few good ideas while I rested, and which I recorded in my notebook. And so this post is more of a straight-up account of the day than a reflection on the experience, which latter is the sort of think I would rather post. But I must rest with the thought that sufficient unto the day are the ideas thereof.

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Sunset over Larcomar Mall on the waterfront in Miraflores. Larcomar made me think of a modern Pike’s Place Market (an institution in Seattle) because it is built into the side of the hill with a view of the ocean.

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